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Question:
Do you charge extra
for non-standard sizes?
Answer:
We charge 15% to modify the size. You simply buy the
blank large enough to accommodate the rectangle you
need and add 15% to cut it to your specific size.
Extra fees apply for arches, sinks, miters, clips and
edging.
Question:
How do you make sure my countertops get to me in one
piece?
Answer:
Due to the abuse that freight companies put on the
packages we require that the products be crated.
There is a $35 fee for smaller items that can be sent
UPS, and a $65 for larger items that require to be
shipped freight. We have been in the business long
enough to know how to package the items so they will
get to you in one piece 99% of the time. If your top
is wider than 36” (not longer than) we ship it
vertically which requires a lot more packaging so the
crating fee may be $75.
Question:
What type of sink is
best to be used in my countertop?
Answer:
There is no warranty for any
sink with the oil finish because it is not waterproof
so discoloration and even possible splitting can
occur. With the varnique finish the surface is
waterproof and therefore either sink option will be
fine as long as the sink cutout is sealed with the
varnique finish.
Question:
Do you use finger joints in your countertops or full
length strips?
Answer: We use full length strips in our
quality countertops and recommend it as the most
stabile method. For those who like the appearance of
staggered but jointed strips and do not care quite as
much about the longevity of the top we do offer one
line of finger joined tops with the actual finger
joints hidden and but joints exposed on the top for a
natural and traditional staggered appearance.
Question:
Is there anyone closer so shipping won’t be as
expensive?
Answer:
Shipping is free so you don’t have to worry about it.
All other internet dealers are shipping products out
of the same place which is Illinois. We inventory
tops for fast lead times and ship those tops out of
Washington, all tops that aren’t in stock ship out of
Illinois. You cannot get product faster than from Old
World if we have it in stock.
Question:
How do I install the top?
Answer:
The top is mounted by driving screws through the
corner blocks in your cabinet base and into the
underside of your countertop. To do this pre drill
the four outer most triangular corner blocks in your
cabinet base with a 7/16 bit. Then center up your
countertop and from the under side drill a 1/4” hole
through the hole in the corner block and into the
bottom of the countertop to receive the 5/16 lag bolt
provided. Then simply drive in the lag bolts in the
holes you drilled using the washer so the lag will not
pull through and will allow for movement. This method
allows for the butcher block to expand and contract.
It is extremely important to follow these instructions
or your top may fail. If the top wants to contract
and cannot it will split. If it wants to expand and
cannot it will warp. Never glue the top down or it
will not be able to expand and contract.
Question:
Do you stock all the standard sized tops listed on
your website?
Answer:
We only stock 1.5” thick tops. We try to keep the
most popular sizes in stock and most every size in
maple with oil finish. Other less popular woods,
thicknesses and sizes can ship in 3 weeks.
Question:
Do
I glue the top down?
Answer:
NO! Never glue down a butcher block because it cannot
expand and contract.
Question:
Do I need an underlayment to mount the butcher block
to?
Answer:
NO! The top needs to breath. Underlayments cause the
top to sweat and have expansion issues.
Question:
Does the butcher block have a lip or self edge?
Answer:
No, lips and self edges are only used in formica or
corian type countertops to cover the underlayment.
Butcher block is a solid slab like slab granite that
mounts directly to the cabinet base.
Question:
How do I clean my butcher block?
Answer:
Just use soap and water. If it is a mineral oil
finish you will need to re-oil once ever six weeks.
Question:
Does the butcher block stain?
Answer:
The varnique finish is highly stain resistant but the
oil finish does not prevent stains. To remove stains
you can lightly sand the area then re-oil.
Question:
Can I cut directly on my butcher block?
Answer:
Yes, if you have the oil finish. If cut marks start
to get too deep lightly sand or scrape and re-oil. If
you have the varnique finish you will need to use a
cutting board.
Question:
Can
I sit anything hot on the butcher block?
Answer:
You can sit hot coffee cups or hot plates on it but
nothing scorching hot because it is wood and it will
burn. There is no countertop surface that you can sit
hot frying pans on without it leaving some kind of
mark other than concrete.
Question:
Is
the butcher block sanitary?
Answer:
Yes, please read the wood vs. plastic article on this
page.
Question:
Why should I buy from your company over your
competitors?
Answer:
In most businesses you can read a sign that says:
“Quality, speed, price; pick any two.” At Old world
you can have all three. We offer the best price if
you are comparing apples to apples. Our speed is the
fastest in the business if the product is in stock.
We sell only John Boos butcher block which is the
highest quality from the company who has been in the
business longer than anyone else.
Question:
If
you don’t have what I want in stock who might?
Answer:
Unfortunately we know of no other stocking dealers for
countertops but there are some who stock cutting
boards and furnishings. Just give us a call and we
might be able to recommend someone.
Question:
What’s the difference between edge grain and end
grain?
Answer:
Edge grain is made with 1.75 wide strips that are as
long as the butcher block glued together with the
quarter sawn face or edge grain up. End grain is made
up of many little squares of wood with the ends (where
you would see the rings) up. The edge grain is the
most stable glue up available for a sturdy long
lasting top. The end grain is not very stable so it
has size limitations and thickness requirements but it
is great for cutting on.
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